This spring when elite professional climber Nick Duttle took a break from a Texas project and wanted to train hard, he came to the New River Gorge. His intention was to climb 10 5.14 level rock climbs, and over the next month, he impressively ticked them all off.
“It was a significant amount of climbing,” he admitted later while home in Colorado when we spoke with him over the phone. But Duttle takes his training seriously and the New, he said, can teach a climber a lot. “The New requires a lot of a climber including intricate footwork,” Nuttle explained. The way up a difficult route “doesn’t immediately present itself. In the Red River Gorge it’s more obvious.”
Duttle’s most memorable 5.14 here was Mango Tango on the Lower Meadow. “That’s a gorgeous piece of stone—the highest quality piece of rock in the New River Gorge area,” he said. On his last 5.14 challenge, Hoax of Clocks, a climb reputed to have stumped famous ascentionist Chris Sharma, a hold broke off in the middle of a difficult section. Duttle continued to the top; it was his second attempt. View Duttle’s climb in a video by Edwin Teran:
Nick Duttle – Hoax of Clocks from Edwin Teran on Vimeo.
Photograph by Edwin Teran.
Category: Rock Climbing